Yongnuo YN-622N review, part 2: high-speed sync, remote control mode

Following on from our earlier overview of the YN-622N i-TTL flash triggers, we’re testing out a couple more features that these devices have to offer.

Yongnuo YN-622N with Nikon D300s DSLR

Following on from our earlier overview of the Yongnuo YN-622N i-TTL flash triggers, we’re testing out a couple more features that these devices have to offer.

Yongnuo YN-622N with Nikon D700 and two SB-800s

In this article we’ll be looking at high-speed sync: the ability to use flashes with your camera at fast shutter speeds without banding in your photographs. We’ve also been getting to grips with Yongnuo’s so-called “remote control mode” — controlling your flash setup using just the YN-622N transmitter, as opposed to “master control mode” (see first review) where you have a Commander flash sitting on top of your transmitter and make the adjustments from there.

Auto-FP High Speed Sync

Why might you need high-speed sync? In this demonstration, we wanted to shoot our 50mm f/1.8 lens wide-open for a narrow depth-of-field, but this means letting a lot of light into the camera and we weren’t able to black out the windows of our studio enough to eliminate the unwanted extra ambient light. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the amount of natural light in the exposure.

The Yongnuo YN-622N synchronises cleanly at all shutter speeds, as shown. However, at extremely high speeds, above 1/2000 second or so, the contribution from the Nikon SB-800 is reduced since the shutter simply isn’t open long enough to let all its light in — and this is more a limitation of the camera-flash combination than of the triggers.

Auto-FP High-Speed Sync with a Nikon SB-800 and the Yongnuo YN-622N

In this case we used TTL mode. On the left there is no flash and on the right is the same scene lit with a remote Nikon SB-800 bouncing light off the right-hand wall. Experimenting with different manual power levels could yield brighter results. Beyond that, you can try ganging together multiple speedlights, or use more flags and “negative fill” (black walls) in your studio to reduce the ambient light falling on your subject.

Remote Control Mode

There are three different operating configurations for the YN-622N system: master control mode (covered in our earlier article), remote control mode and mix control mode. The latter involves just setting parameters on the flash units themselves, so that you can mix together manual, TTL and stroboscopic flashes. Here we’ll be looking at remote control mode, which allows you to remotely adjust three groups of flashes without the need for a Commander unit.

Covered on page 10–11 of the user manual, Remote Control Mode seems bewildering at first because, unlike the Phottix Odin and Kody TTL, we have no LCD control panel to view and adjust settings. And the corresponding written instructions are in confusing Chinglish. It’s actually deceptively simple once you’ve got your head round it.

Yongnuo YN-622N with Nikon D700 and two SB-800s

How it works

  1. Set up your receivers in the desired groups. Make sure they are on the same channel as the transmitter.
  2. On the transmitter, decide whether you want to use your flashes in i-TTL or manual mode. You can switch between them by holding down the GP/MODE button on the transmitter.
    • Green LED = TTL mode
    • Orange LED = Manual mode. (Yongnuo normalises the manual power levels on its own scale, so these don’t necessarily correspond to the 1/1, 1/2, 1/4 etc settings found on the flash’s own control panel. See the instruction booklet for more information.)
  3. Hold the shutter button halfway down to send signals through to the receivers, then press it all the way to take a picture.
  4. Look at your picture. Are all of the groups firing at the right brightness? If so, great. Profit.
  5. If not, you can increase/decrease the output of each group independently of one another. First, hold the shutter button halfway down to enter transmitting mode. Then, hold down the + or – button on the transmitter so that it starts cycling through C1, C2, C3, A, B, C…
    • To increase power by one stop, hold the plus (+) button down and let go when the correct LED is illuminated. C1 for group A, C2 for group B or C3 for group C.
    • To decrease power by one stop, do the same, but holding down the minus (-) button.
    • To increase power by 1/3 stop, hold the plus (+) button down and let go when the correct LED is illuminated. A for group A, B for group B, C for group C.
    • To decrease power by 1/3 stop, do the same, but holding down the minus (-) button.

Once you’ve wrapped your head around this and tried it a couple of times, it is actually quite easy to understand. If I wasn’t clear enough above, leave a comment below and I’ll try to clarify things. Having played with it for a little while, it’s actually very easy to use. No complex menus to navigate, just one button to press and wait. Use your camera LCD or a light meter reading to see that, eg, group A needs to be a stop brighter while group B needs to be 2/3 stop dimmer and group C is just right.

There isn’t a way of reading off the absolute power levels or flash exposure compensation you have set, but you can take a relativistic approach instead. I can imagine getting used to this, but it could make it harder to replicate lighting setups from place to place unless I write down all the adjustments I’ve made.

Still, this sacrifice could be worth the benefit of a lighter camera rig, with no heavy Commander flash unit sitting on top. Plus if you only own SB-800s or SB-600s, there’s no need to buy a new flash.

Case study – TTL mode

Here’s a quick scenario. Spot the Dog is guarding the last few Yorkshire Gold teabags. Can we use a Nikon D700, the YN-622N and a pair of Speedlight SB-800s to light him properly?

Yongnuo YN-622N case study lighting setup

We have a main light on group A (sitting in a beauty dish on the right) and a background light (a bare flash behind the box) on group B. From the transmitter we can choose to fire any combination we like. Starting with no flash exposure compensation and everything in TTL mode we get the following:

Yongnuo YN-622N case study - TTL

The main light (A) is looking pretty good on its own, but when combined with group B the camera’s matrix metering is getting confused by the bright background and mistakenly under-exposing our subject. A classic situation when flash exposure compensation (FEC) is needed.

Holding down the (+) button on our YN-622N transmitter, I let go when “C1” is highlighted and it adds one stop (+1 EV) of exposure compensation to flash group A, giving the image below which is much more like what we want. Repeating the process adds more stops of exposure compensation for an even brighter main light, but +3 EV is too much.

Yongnuo YN-622N case study - TTL

If we want to make our background light brighter then it works the same way. Hold down plus (+) until C2 is highlighted to increase flash exposure compensation by 1.0 EV each time.

Yongnuo YN-622N case study - TTL

And there we have it, a photo taken with two groups of wireless i-TTL flashes, each adjusted independently of one another without moving from the camera position. This example was pretty relaxed and contrived, but imagine using this for studio portraiture or even for events photography, say at a wedding reception.

Of course not everybody is a fan of TTL mode. There are those of us who prefer the shot-to-shot consistency of manual mode. The YN-622N caters to these people too.

Case study – Manual mode

Spot is still guarding the tea, and in the meantime we have switched the YN-622N transmitter to manual mode, so that the LED now glows orange rather than green. Without making any adjustments, our first shot using manual flash looks like this. The arrangement of the lights is the same as before — one SB-800 in a beauty dish and another pointing at the back wall.

Yongnuo YN-622N case study - Manual mode

Hmm. Both lights are, in theory, at the same default power level, which on the Yongnuo scale is called “1” and on the SB-800 is something like 1/128 of full power (I think). The background light doesn’t look too bad, but the main light is much darker because it is further away and losing intensity as it is diffused and reflected from the different surfaces of beauty dish. Not to worry!

Holding down the (+) button and releasing on “C1” increases the Group A power level to double what it was before. Level 2 in Yongnuo terminology or 1/64 power in Nikon speak. Our first shot looks more than just one stop under-exposed so we do this a total of three times to reach power level 8 (1/16). And we increase Group B to power level 2 while we’re at it.

Yongnuo YN-622N case study - Manual mode

So to recap, we’ve started off with two flashes at 1/128 power and manually adjusted them via 2.4GHz remote control to 1/16 and 1/64 for the main and background light respectively. Pretty handy, and once again we didn’t need to contend with an unwieldy top-mounted Commander flash or have to splash out on a new SU-800. But we always have the option to add an on-camera flashgun, however capable, should we want some fill light later on.

In our third and final article I’ll be looking at “Super Sync”, range, the AF-assist lamp and anything I might have missed so far (let me know in the comments). To read our initial hands-on review of the system, click here.

The YN-622N is available now, priced around $90 for a basic two-piece set and $45 per additional transceiver. Click here for listings. You can find more technical information and download a copy of the user manual from the manufacturer’s product page. Thanks to YongnuoStore.com, an unofficial reseller, for providing the samples in this review.

David Selby
Based in the West Midlands, UK, David Selby is editor of Lighting Rumours, a part-time photographer and a statistics PhD student.
selbydavid.com
  • wrekcs

    Wow thanks for the review! I’ve really close to getting the Odins (for 3 Nikon flashes), the 622n are way cheaper and i could even add SU-800 for the display if i wanted to.

  • RMFearless

    Thanks!

  • zubpho

    ‘at extremely high speeds, above 1/2000 second or so, the contribution
    from the Nikon SB-800 is reduced since the shutter simply isn’t open
    long enough to let all its light in.’

    Do you mean that from 1/250s to 1/2000s there is no light loss recorded with FP high speed sync feature?

    • Not quite no light loss, but the difference was less noticeable. Of course this will depend on a variety of factors.

  • sk

    Hi, have you compared –

    a) TTL results achieved by YN622N Vs pop-up flash?
    b) Do you see consistent exposure with sb800/sb600?

    I was one of the early folks to receive the unit and unfortunately for me it doesn’t work consistently (no consistent exposure) with sb800/sb600. Neither the exposure matches with what I can achieve with pop-up flash under same circumstances.

    Happy shooting!
    sk

    • Sorry, I don’t have the SB-800s any more (they were lent by a friend) and my SB-600 died a while ago. So I haven’t been able to do any further TTL comparisons. Our next article is looking at the use of the YN-622N with manual flash.

      • Vato

        When can we expect the new article? I am actually holding off my hands on buying the YN622N but am eagerly awaiting your supersync test with manual flashes like YN560

        • Hopefully within the next week.

          • Richard Bremer

            Is the final article online yet? Couldn’t find it when browsing through the trigger articles. I am very curious about this feature.

    • Koen Hillewaert

      I did some tests today… SB800, D700, Timelaps, 100shots, 10 seconds inbetween… TTL & manual. Manual mode is consistant, TTL is not! 1 out of 3 shots is bad.

    • PT Photography & Gear Rev’s

      I had 3 622n’s about a month ago now and found out the hard way that my units were not compatible with D200/sb-600’s. Contacted YN and they confirmed this issue and stated units built after June 20, 2013 resolve this issue so I suspect your exposure issues could be a result of early production firmware not be what it should be.

  • deadl.ie

    I still don’t get how to remotely change the power.

    I’ve my camera and flash in manual mode.

    I hold down my camera’s shutter release halfway, then I go to my transceiver on camera, select + (i.e. CH/AF+) and hold it. It cycles around. I let go when it reaches C1 (as I want my power to go up) and then take a picture, but nothing happens.

    What am I doing wrong?

    • Ikarus

      Your flash (being compatible) has to be in TTL mode, and your transmitter (YN-622N on camera) in “remote control mode”.

      • As Ikarus says, your flash must ALWAYS be in TTL mode, regardless of the setting on your transmitter. Otherwise it cannot receive signals from the receiver it is sitting on. The transmitter makes the decisions about whether you’re using TTL or manual power, not the flash.

        • Dave Mazz

          David, do you mean that the off camera flash has to be in TTL if you want to remotely control it from the on-camera transceiver? I’m able to set my SB700 to Manual, and trigger it with the on camera transceiver without issue.

          • Ikarus

            I’m not David, but yes, if you want to remotely “CONTROL” a compatible flash from the transmiter (increasing or lowering the power of the flash), is mandatory for the remote flash to be in TTL mode. If you set your remote flash in MANUAL mode, it will fire too contributing to the exposure, but you’ll have to set al the settings directly on the flash. This is what is called “mixed mode” in the manual.

          • Sergio

            Ikarus, so if I have a Nikon SB700 flash on the camera with the transceiver on top of the camera and want to control remotely a manual flash like Yongnuo YN 560 II with a receiver, this setup is called “mixed mode” right? and I’ll still need to set all the settings directly on the flash, is that correct? I cannot control the power of th eflash from my transmitter?

  • Arnie

    I think there are many Nikon users which are interested what exactly doesn’t work using a YN-622N together with a D3 or D4. Is it just a special mode (like TTL or Master-mode (on top flash)) or is the YN-622N without function at all used with the Nikon pro models?

    • Sorry, I don’t know anybody who uses a D3 or D4 that I could test.

      • Sergio

        Yes they work David.

        • Dennis

          They do? How? I contacted YN and they clearly stated that the D3(s) and D4 do not work with the YN-622N’s! So I am really curious to hear HOW they work then? (I have a D4)

          • Sergio

            According to a review in Amazon http://www.amazon.com/review/R27IFM48U7DX00/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R27IFM48U7DX00 it works, I just bought a pair of these and I will confirm this next week, but I have read also some reviews that buyers have had to return the units because they didn´t work. I own a D3, I will update this post.
            Also I have found another post in http://www.fredmiranda.com/testforum/topic/1225369 where user LZ7J comments that it works in the D4 and D3s bodies.

          • Sergio

            Dennis, according to a webpage http://www.fredmiranda.com/testforum/topic/1225369, user LZ7J confirms that it works fine on D3s an D4 bodies

          • Sergio

            Hi Dennis, now I can confirm that these units work fine with a D3 Nikon body, I bought mine and tested with a Nikon SB-700 flash and using ttl capability and they fired up, also I tested the ttl function while zooming the ring on the lens and in the other hand in the flash window, I could see how the info regarding mm numbers changed accordingly.

          • Dennis

            Hi Sergio, thank you for getting back to me! I will definately check the info on the sites you mentioned. Yonguo is now back on the list (up until now it was either Phottix or PocketWizard, which are a lot more expensive than Yonguo but not necessarily more reliable). Thank you again!

  • Carmen

    I got my 622N’s a little while ago and just playing tonight on my D7000 with a SB800 as a remote. For some reason though the D7000 thinks it’s in commander mode is that right? I cant’ seem to change the flash output settings properly and each time I do I seem to have to reset the channel and group settings on the receiver as they start blinking and the flash doesn’t respond…. it doesn’t’ seem right somehow???? I think I’m probably doing something wrong somewhere – perhaps I need an idiots guide!

  • john

    Quick question – do the triggers support just plain old manual triggering?

    i.e. can I set the flash to manual and adjust its power on the back of the flash, but use the yongnuo to trigger it?

    • Ikarus

      Yes, tested with a Fuji X-E1 and a Nissin Di866-N.

  • apaladi

    A comment on 622N power levels:

    – page 11 of the manual says the default is no.8 (YN scale) which according to the second table on the same page is 1/16 flash power value (not 1/128 as you mention). I confirmed this by increasing in steps of 1 stop from default to maximum (the LED stops blinking at max) and I could do it only 4 times, which is exactly how many it takes from 1/16 to 1/1. Try it yourself.

    – so knowing the defaults (1/16 for M, and 0 FEC for TTL) can help you go back to a known reference point (using on/off switch) when you get confused during a long shoot, or when you accidentally modify the wrong group (that happens).

    – I am still debating on the usefulness of having an SU-800 on top of the transmitter. It makes it heavier, on one hand, but it gives you speed and confidence fiddling with power/FEC levels across 3 groups. Anyone care to try and comment?

    Regarding your statement “your flash must ALWAYS be in TTL mode” – not really true, I confirm what Dave says, you can set the remote flash in manual, and it will still fire up (at the manual setting of the flash, ignoring the transceiver/receiver). Useful for mixed mode (e.g. subject with TTL, background with manual). This also enables us to use any hotshoe flash in manual, on remote 622Ns, not only TTL.

    • Jmidjr

      You just answered my question, I think. I’d like to fire my sb700 with ttl as main light and use my old but faithful sb28 manually for background etc. in manual mode. If I understand you correctly, in mixed mode this should work. Y/N?

  • cereas

    Hi

    Ty for reviw, but i have one question… How to remotly use manual
    mode? How to setup yn622 and flash SB700 to use it manual. Like i want
    to remotly true yn622 set my flash to shot wiht 1/128 and one time on
    full ? On TTL work great +3EV,-3EV work great, but dont know how to go
    on manualy … plz help (i have sb700,yn622N, nikon d90) ty

  • installerx

    Can you fire the remote flashes with manual flash settings (set through transmitter on camera) and still fire on-camera flash on top of transmitter on TTL?

  • Rick

    Yes. I have tested with 5 units, one on top of my Nikon, and an SU-800 on this as master pass through. Note, you must, I repeat must, turn on the trigger last or you get an error message on the SU-800. Once this is sorted, I can confirm it works very well. I wish they had used triple a batteries, as it is still fairly heavy with this setup. Howevermp, well worth the price. Just turn on last in the series if using pass through or you will have problems

    • ayumex

      Thanks so much Rick! I’ve hunted so long for an answer to this question and thanks for the clear response. I guess I’ll be putting in an order for a set of these sooner than I expected.

      Maybe I can put away the YN603Ns and stop running back and forth from my lights.

  • WorkofHart

    This review answers so many of my questions (thank you David!!), but I feel like my biggest question is yet to be clearly answered. I REALLY want a radio trigger solution that allows me to control my flashes using the in-camera CLS interface on my D7000/7100. It sounds like as great as these triggers are, I either need to sacrifice one of my SB700’s to act as a commander or invest in an SU800 to have a not-so-convoluted way to monitor and adjust flash power without leaving the camera?

    • That’s right. No triggers can do what you want, except infrared relay hacks like Radiopoppers, which rely on the pop-up flash and aren’t much less convoluted.

      • apaladi

        hopefully the upcoming yn622 TX will make it less convoluted.

  • Enigmus

    I’ve tried and tried with both an SB900 and YN568EX (for nikon) with TTL mode from my D90. I still cannot remotely control the power levels when setting the transceiver to manual (orange) while in transmit mode (half shutter depress). The power levels still stay the same no matter how much I increase or decrease from the default reference power level. Is there something I’m missing?

    • Maybe your receiver is in the wrong mode somehow? It could have been inadvertently put into “Mix Control Mode”, which would have it still trigger but not adjust power levels by remote.

      • Enigmus

        I thought there were only two color LEDS: Green (TTL) Orange (Manual) Both transmitter and receivers are orange after a reset.

        • That may be so, but there are more than two modes. Check the manual.

        • apaladi

          receiver – always green. you can use orange only if you want it to ignore the setting on the transmitter (your case I guess).

  • Steven Solidarios

    Mine are coming in tomorrow! Thanks for the review!

  • kellie stapleton

    Trying to use the 622N on the Fuji x100s. I can get the flash to work (tx flash mode orange, rx flash mode green, sb700 flash mode M). With the previous settings just mentioned, I get NO scrolling through a,b,c,c1, etc., when trying to change flash output. Can you control flash output from the tx on the Fuji? What would be the trigger settings, that is tx flash mode color green or orange and what flash mode on the sb700, TTL or manual? You don’t mention rx trigger flash mode setting. After factory reset it’s on green. Keep it there?

    • apaladi

      yeah, it doesn’t work on anything other than Nikon. It works as a very long but dumb sync cord – meaning manual mode only, power can be set on remote flashes directly, no central control.

  • I’ve been looking everywhere for help, but I’m still unable to control my flashes remotely.

    I have a D800 and a D700, 4 YN622ns, and two SB-910 flashes. I’ve tried a lot of permutations but still can’t get it to work. Here are my questions:

    1. Do I hold the shutter halfway the entire time I’m adjusting, or only once to get it into the right mode?
    2. What flash setting should my camera be in? Or does it not matter? Like should it be in commander mode, manual mode, etc?
    3. What setting should my SB-910’s be in?

    Thanks!

    • apaladi

      1. just once, to get the blinking LEDs, then you have a few seconds to change the power/fec. if you need to change more than 1 step, then repeat all over.

      2. the camera mode doesn’t really matter. It should see the transmitter on top as a regular ttl flash.
      3. all remote flashes and yn622n’s should be in TTL – then you can have full (ttl+manual) control from the transmitter

  • Thetreeman

    Very helpful.

  • John Weigold

    Could someone else who ones these double check my sanity on this:
    I have a d7000 with a YN622 mounted to it, and a sb700 on top of that. If I set the sb700 to Master mode and turn off A and B but leave M on. For some reason the flash does not fire in TTL but It does fire in Manual. If I turn on A it fires. Is this a glitch in the software, or is it a defective remote?

    I was really hoping to set a remote flash on A and turn it on/off via the SB700 master, rather than manually turn on/off the remote on the off camera flash.

  • Gene

    Thanks for the great reviews, very helpful! I was wondering can one use these YN622’s together with Nikons own CLS? For example, having a SU800/YN622 commander on the camera, an SB 700 on a YN622 out of line of sight (IN TTL MODE) and a SB700 (IN REMOTE MODE) w/o YN622 nearby/ in line of sight being triggered by the SU800 directly all in Separate Groups?
    Thanks much!

  • Howard Scho

    Thanks for the great explanation of how to adjust power levels and how to control everything without a master flash sitting on top of the transmitter. These units do a great job, but come with one of the worst written unintelligible manuals I have seen in years. It amazes me that the Chinese are capable enough to produce a great product but can’t seem to find capable people to actually write an instruction manual that makes sense. Thanks again.

  • Howard Scho

    Is part three of this great review written? If not when might it be available?

  • Amitabh Arora

    Excellent blog David. I just want to confirm my understanding and needed some clarification.

    Here is my setup without the RF remotes:

    I have a D800 and 3 SB-800’s set in iTTL Remote mode (each in itheir own group), so that I can change ratios from the camera. Pop-up flash is in commander mode.

    All works great except that due to the preflash communication I cannot get 4 frames per second. Preflash takes too long.

    What I am hoping with the RF remotes is to avoid wasting the time in the pre-flash
    sequence. I don’t mind setting pre-flash with flash value lock once in the beginning. Is this possible?

    To improve my flash firing speed I am planning to have SD-8A attached to each of the 3 flashes. Hopefully this will reduce the re-cycling time substantially.

    Your response is much appreciated.

    • Hello. Sorry, this isn’t something I can easily test for you.

      • Amitabh Arora

        Can anyone else in this form test it out for me. It is quite simple actually and can be done with one flash for testing. One remote on camera and one for the flash. Set exposure compensation on the group, in the camera to -3 (or the lowest possible). This will ensure that every flash burst is not chewing up the whole charge. Then, take a picture with flash value lock. Now take a burst and see if the flash is able to keep up.
        This test will help me a lot in deciding if I need to stay with the older YN-603N and stay with the manual mode (a bit of a pain), or move to this new model and achieve iTTL through RF.
        Hope someone has the time to do this.
        Cheers.

  • Dana

    Can I remotely trigger the shutter of my D800 and also fire a remote flash with three units?

  • Simone

    This is a great article. I came across it when I was looking for information on an ERR message that I get on my Nikon D500 in conjunction with HSS and the YN622 transmitter. Here is the scenario:
    1. YN 622 transmitter set in Manual Mode on my Nikon D500 shoe.
    2. S700 Nikon Speed light is positioned off camera and set to TTL mode
    3. D500 shutter speed is set to higher than 250 (HSS required).
    When I take a picture, the Mirror goes up but does not came back. The indicator light on the YN 622 transmitter is red. The D500 gives me the ERR message.

    Same scenario as above:
    If I change the shutter speed to 200 (no HSS required), the camera takes the picture without any issues.

    I also tried the following:
    1. I used Yonggnu 685 with and without the S700. I am getting the same ERR message regardless if the speed light is set to TTL or Manual Mode.
    2. I changed the YN622 transmitter to TTL. I get no ERR message. Mirror does not lock up.
    3. I used the YN 622 receiver in the hot shoe with my D500 250 or higher (HSS). Both speed lights worked. No ERR message.

    I have been searching on the Net for any article regarding the issue, but I could not anything about this. Wonder is the issue is the transmitter or my camera. ANy thoughts?
    Thanks

  • Simone

    This is a great article. I came across it when I was
    looking for information on an ERR message that I get on my Nikon D500 in
    conjunction with HSS and the YN622 transmitter. Here is the scenario:

    1. YN 622 transmitter set in Manual Mode on my Nikon D500 shoe.

    2. S700 Nikon Speed light is positioned off camera and set to TTL mode

    3. D500 shutter speed is set to higher than 250 (HSS required).

    When I take a picture, the Mirror goes up but does not came back. The
    indicator light on the YN 622 transmitter is red. The D500 gives me the ERR
    message.

    Same scenario as above:

    If I change the shutter speed to 200 (no HSS required), the camera takes the
    picture without any issues.

    I also tried the following:

    1. I used Yonggnu 685 with and without the S700. I am getting the same ERR
    message regardless if the speed light is set to TTL or Manual Mode.

    2. I changed the YN622 transmitter to TTL. I get no ERR message. Mirror
    does not lock up.

    3. I used the YN 622 receiver in the hot shoe with my D500 250 or higher (HSS).
    Both speed lights worked. No ERR message.

    I have been searching on the Net for any article regarding the issue, but I
    could not anything about this. Wonder is the issue is the transmitter or
    my camera. ANy thoughts?

    Thanks

    • Blain

      I just spent an hour trying to figure this out, I too was getting a lock up with d500 and yn622n on the flash, yn622n-tx on the d500.
      Did a reset on yn622n-tx, and figured it out.
      If you are using the flash on one channel, (channel a) you have to have another (channel b or c)set to ttl, even if no flash is in it.
      I did this repeatedly and it works fine now

  • RT Huggins

    I have my Nikon D610 set up for back button focus using the AE-L/AF-L button. Do I depress that button or the shutter button when I want to adjust the FEC on a group?
    Also, do I have to continue to hold the shutter button while I cycle through the C1/C2/C3/A/B/C pressing the +/- buttons?